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Author Topic: 67' Series IIA Project  (Read 3141 times)

Offline Daniel

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #15 on: August 13, 2008, 02:55:05 PM »
Damn good deal for the money. Bulkhead repair panels are cheap. New floors are cheap. Wiring harness is cheap. Heck, the only expensive things you need are the frame, and a set of parabolic springs. I would also buy a set of new wheels designed for tubeless tires, just for making the tire sourcing and daily driving liveable. My 68' was a lot worse off than that, missing an engine, and not even complete; and I was glad to pay only 900 for it. Supply and demand I guess. LOL!

Awesome deal. Good luck.
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2002 LR DII SE Kalahari Edition. 4.6, locking CDL, and Detroits.
1994 LR RRC LWB. EAS conversion w/ +2" springs.
1968 LR SIIA 88" Hybrid, with 109" 1 ton axles SOA. Needs Tartis for completion.

1979 LR SIII 5 door 109 SW, 11 seater. Sold, 09'.
1997 Disco I Bobtailed buggy conversion. Sold, 11'.

Offline JFenn

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #16 on: August 13, 2008, 03:47:50 PM »
Yea I'm gonna see if I can make it the 16th.  I'm starting a new job Monday so I might have some logistical stuff I need to do for that.  

Well at least I know its definitely doable.  Yea probably the biggest expense will be the frame/suspension and or body/paint if I decide to go that route.  Still have to see what shape the drivetrain is in.  It does have a real patina to it lol.

You think I should go with parabolic springs?  Is it worth the extra cash?  If I decide to do up the body and paint, I don't think I'll be doing much hardcore off-roading to see a difference.  If I leave the body/paint as is then I will prob want to see what it can do off road.

So I guess thats the decision I need to make.  A nice shiny correct restoration, that will see mostly light trail, street, and show use, or a mostly correct restoration with dents and flat paint that I don't have to baby.  I could go either way really.  Maybe I'll be able to make up my mind when I get it apart.

I Think it has after market wheels.  They are 16".  It also has Warn hub lockers.  Are those stock?

I cleaned it today.  Freakin nasty...spiders, mold, moss, dirt.  Basically sprayed it down with engine degreaser and scrubbed away.  Cleaned up nice actually.  If it wasn't for the frame I'd be tempted to drive it as is.  Oh yea, and the thing is about as watertight as a convertible.  Nothin much to get wet inside though.

Next up is to start it...or attempt to.  Its not leaking any fluids, but then again it may have all leaked out after 7 years of sitting.  The oil is full up however, and clean as new.
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Offline Daniel

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #17 on: August 13, 2008, 04:17:18 PM »
The parabolics are a plus, either way. If you drive it on the road, the ride is much smoother, more consistent, and more bearable on long hauls. Slightly taller ride height means that better selection of rubber will be available. Most series owners go with 235/85/16 for rolling stock. Parabolics allow thwem to fit without trimming.
Off-road; parabolics offer more articulation, less jounce, and a softer ride over the rough stuff. Once again the ride height helps as well.
Either way; if you end up having to replace your springs; the paras are not much more expensive than stock units. You can get a complete set of all four, with new hardware, new u-bolts, and greasable shackle fittings with zerks for around 800 from Great Basin Rovers.
16" wheels were stock on Landy's. Very rarely will you find 15 inchers on a SIIa or SIII. The warns free wheeling hubs were aftermarket. Sometimes put on as a dealer option, but most dealer add-ons were made by Fairey, the same company that made the overdrive unit for them, and some older winches. Warns are only seen put on by dealers statesside. I have the warns on a set of 64' axles I have laying around.

If you do a full restoration; plan on keeping it forever and having it go to the kids and grandkids. For you will never get your money out of it, if you do it right. If you make a trail rig / daily driver / weekend toy; you might break even on it. The trucks asking high money on craigslist and ebay stay listed for months and months, and usually have the reserve dropped half a dozen times before selling.
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2002 LR DII SE Kalahari Edition. 4.6, locking CDL, and Detroits.
1994 LR RRC LWB. EAS conversion w/ +2" springs.
1968 LR SIIA 88" Hybrid, with 109" 1 ton axles SOA. Needs Tartis for completion.

1979 LR SIII 5 door 109 SW, 11 seater. Sold, 09'.
1997 Disco I Bobtailed buggy conversion. Sold, 11'.

Offline TightButWillFit

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #18 on: August 13, 2008, 04:51:03 PM »
that would be cool if u put the diesel in after the resto is done!
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Offline JFenn

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #19 on: August 13, 2008, 07:53:25 PM »
My bad, I thought they were 16's, they are 15" wheels.  Looks like they are galvanized, they're in great shape.  I'll look into the parabolics.  They look lighter too, always a plus.


Quote from: TightButWillFit;8269
that would be cool if u put the diesel in after the resto is done!


Yea I was thinking that.  Its missing the cylinder head, and a few other little things.  Needs a rebuild for sure.  I think what he did was pull the gas motor during the oil crisis in the 70's, or when it died, then put in the diesel.  Then the diesel died and he put the rebuilt gas motor back in.  I actually found the receipt for the motor from when it was purchased.  $2400!
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Offline TightButWillFit

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #20 on: August 13, 2008, 08:03:37 PM »
i am sure loads of torque...i dont know much about lr but did the diesel have a turbo?
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Offline the colonel

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #21 on: August 13, 2008, 08:07:25 PM »
i am running with the parabolics and i could not beleive the difference.   from jarring to smooth. loves the pavement but does unreal on the dirt!!!  the flex is amazing... jimmy thought something was broken.  just the parabolic articulation!!!   worth the swap!!!
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Offline junkyddog11

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #22 on: August 13, 2008, 08:44:35 PM »
I wouldn't get to excited about that diesel as the 2.25 is amazingly nutless and isn't at all more economical to operate. It's nice that they theoretically don't need to be tuned but they are for the most part a pain in the ass to start and run, and probably have the shortest life span of any Rover motor.

They were produced in an effort to please comercial operators who wanted to have a common fuel for the whole fleet.

I have a freshly rebuilt unit at the shop....takes about a mile to get to 45mph.....gets about 15mpg.
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Oil Soaked Filter
http://www.overlandengineering.com .......one of those "other shops"

Offline TightButWillFit

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #23 on: August 13, 2008, 08:46:54 PM »
can they take a turbo? or these diesel motors just have no sac what so ever? if no turbo is there somebody who sells a kit? i am just wondering out of curiosity even though i dont own one haha
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Offline cellulararrest

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« Reply #24 on: August 13, 2008, 09:17:25 PM »
Those old diesels are quite bad like Matt said. Why would you even bother turbocharging it? Spend your time on a 200/300tdi or a International 2.8.
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Offline TightButWillFit

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« Reply #25 on: August 13, 2008, 09:19:03 PM »
just curiouse thats all
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Offline JFenn

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #26 on: August 13, 2008, 09:56:01 PM »
I don't think either motor has much sac, but who cares.  I think the only engine mod I'll do is a K&N cone filter to bypass that oil bath filter.  Any ups or downs of doing that?  Here's a link to some performance specs I found.

http://www.trucktrend.com/roadtests/suv/163_0709_four_wheel_drive_comparison/land_rover_specs.html

0-60mph in a blazing 36 seconds.... and eats up the 1/4 in 24 secs, but hey at least you have time to make a sandwich or read a magazine while waiting to get up there, LOL.

The 15" wheels that are on mine, are those stock?
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Offline the colonel

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« Reply #27 on: August 13, 2008, 10:07:53 PM »
jason...i have the cone filter and she handles it great.  got the canister just for looks!!!
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Offline TightButWillFit

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67' Series IIA Project
« Reply #28 on: August 13, 2008, 10:08:10 PM »
i have always wondered how those air filters work anybody wanna explain??
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Offline the colonel

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« Reply #29 on: August 13, 2008, 10:16:05 PM »
you see ben, let me explain by saying that the cone filter utilizes a
velocity stack formed integrally into the flange with a radius
transition into the intake pipe to help reduce turbulence. The end of
the cone sports a vortex assembly which further increases the available
surface area for filtering while also encouraging a smooth
non-turbulent air flow through the filter interior. Thats the simplist way to explain it.
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"Life is tough! Life is tougher when you're stupid!"     -John Wayne
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