94' LWB didn't start this morning.

[Daniel]

Rave CD says in 95' model year, starter solenoid relay is behind lower fascia, but passengers side. I was under the drivers seat. It was the yellow relay mounted ight next to the immobiliser switch with the little pin button that pops up, and shows red when it is tripped. Damn thing clicks with the key, every time. There's another relay under the pass. seat that clicks, that must be the ecu. F-ing starter problem is pissing me off. At least the weather's good now, since Fay is gone, and I can ride the motorcycle. But I want to fix this thing without the 125 an hour dealer labor b.s.. Wish Rave said how to test and/or bypass nuetral switch, as I'm thinking that is what's up at this point.

[Kevin88RRC]

Does the Rave not show what & where each relay is???
You did not mention if you checked and cleaned all your ground straps since this happened after the water crossings.

Here is some testing info on the inhibitor switch.  It's for earlier models, but I would think it would be similar.

[Kevin88RRC]

Found more info.  According to Rimmer Bros, the relay is yellow top in the steering column cluster.  http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk:80/rimmer/land-rover/range-rover/electrical#Relays

Also,  from Rangerovers.net.....  http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm#neutral

"Neutral Safety Switch

The later Classic models come with a so-called "neutral Safety Switch", also known as a starter inhibit switch. This is to prevent you starting in anything other than park and neutral. Jonathan Stehn  reports that in the 1991 automatic transmission electrical diagram the reverse light switch is an integral part of the start inhibit switch. If the switch fails closed you would be able to start in drive. If it fails open you would not be start at all. If the reverse part goes out then the reverse lights don't come on. It was mentioned by someone once that if you can't start the truck to check the reverse lights with the transmission selector in reverse. If there are no reverse lights, then consider the start inhibit (neutral safety switch)/reverse light switch as the source of the problem. The start inhibit switch is on the left hand side front of the transmission about half way up. There is a single bolt holding it in place and it is fairly difficult to reach and especially disconnect the wiring for.The instructions and a small exploded diagram are in the electrical repair section of the manual. Unfortunately the manual does a poor job of actually showing you where to look. However, if you look at the automatic gearbox assembly exploded diagram at the beginning of the automatic gearbox section you can get a good idea of where to feel for it. Also note that failure of the switch can activate fault code 69 on the display under the back of the front passenger seat. "

[Daniel]

Thanks. Appreciate it. Some more good reading. I'll try to find on Rave something like that test you posted. That pic made absolutely no sense to me, so I'll have to find it on Rave and read through it. Might be way over my head. I hate, absolutely hate electricasl diagnostics. I have a guy who works parttime for my company just to do my electrical. I refuse to. Have every known test light, powerprobe, and meter known to the snapon guy, but don't know how to use 90% of them. Never needed to clean a ground strap on any vehicle I've owned in over 20 years of driving. If I need to on a rover, I'll start dumping full HK91 mags into each one I have, sell them for scrap, and go buy a uni-mog. I ain't cleaning a damned ground wire. Lucas or not, that would be a pathetic excuse for a vehicle problem.

[junkyddog11]

OK, Rave does you no good unless you have a '95 which is completely different (Disco dash).

Your starter is shot. If it is getting power it has nothing to do with relays or neutral safety switch and etc. as they interupt the power to the starter (small wire for lack of a better description). If you have power to the small starter wire and it will actuate the starter....the starter itself is seized, or the spring in it has broken as in it will not project from the housing and contact the ring gear teeth.

[Daniel]

Matt; Is that why when I hit it with the remote starter, I can hear the starter spinning; but it sounds like it is free-wheeling? I am thinking to what I am good at; outboard motors. We have lots of times where starters will freewheel, and the gear does not engage the flywheel. So we have to grease, stretch, or replace the activator spring. Is this the idea you are describing. The starter turned over very strong, but sounded like it was not engaging anything...

[the colonel]

hit it with a hammer to unseize it.....(worth a shot)

[junkyddog11]

That is the general Idea. Worn spring, siezed shaft.

The Colonel idea is also valid but with Rover (V8) starters a very short term sloution as generally you'll end up rendering the starter worthless as a core.

From my service / warantee / shop perspective I generally don't bother attempting to fix V8 starters as for the cost vs the effort of getting them in and out and the possibility of further replacement, additional breakdowns and inconvenience it is not worth it. Not to say it cant be done though.