Topic: Replacing Viscous/Mechanical Fan with electric (Read 765 times)

Texaninmass · « **Reply #15 on:** January 08, 2009, 08:29:20 AM »

Uh...funny...no thanks...bastard

Daniel · « **Reply #16 on:** January 09, 2009, 01:42:03 PM »

I was doing some more reading up on this subject in some old issues of LROI, and LRM. When this was first being done in the UK, a lot of people did it without tying them into thermostatic switches. It resulted in Overcooling of the engine, and a whole different set of issues popping up because the motor wasn't up to proper operating temperatures. Be careful of that with yours...

Texaninmass · « **Reply #17 on:** January 10, 2009, 09:32:26 AM »

Thanks Daniel, I read that as well before I did the mod. I read that it will cause the computer to throw a code because it thinks something’s wrong.
At present I have them directly hooked up through the condenser fan cooling circuit so they act exactly like the cooling fans as far as when they come on/off because of the temp.

I need to run a separate battery circuit on a relay so the only thing the condensor circuit is doing is activating them and not carry the load of 4 fans.

For the sake of seeing if I was going to like the conversion and the ease of changing it back I hooked it up this way to do some initial testing but, I am going to add the circuit when I get some time.

Good thing to post though if anyone is thinking about the mod

Tex

Follow up post:

I am going to post another question related to this but kind of a separate issue called

Correct wire terminations/adding a aux fuse block/proper relay installations

the colonel · « **Reply #18 on:** January 10, 2009, 05:06:56 PM »

Also men.... if i may conject on an engineering level! What battery will you be using to power the fan AFTER the engine is off and still at high tempature? If not properly fitted, you may begin to draw on the battery subjecting it to an early flatline. May I suggest that you try a dedicated deep cycle battery? As I was following along, it was just something that begged to be asked.

Texaninmass · « **Reply #19 on:** January 11, 2009, 10:05:16 AM »

Good point Tom,
However it is so cold out right now that it is not running after shut off. I have two deep cycles sitting in wait right now to go in with the hellroarer 3 batt system but have not installed it yet.
One thing I would point out is that the hellroarer system leaves the main battery for everything and only opens up the secondary and third when it senses a load on the primary.

Tex

Follow up post:

http://www.hellroaring.com/

Daniel · « **Reply #20 on:** January 12, 2009, 05:46:47 PM »

The Odyssey rep just gave me two Group 24 Odyssey batteries for free to get me to switch from using Optima's in all of my trucks. We use Odyssey at work, and I use Optima at my business. I must say the Odyssey's are built better; we'll see how they hold up to Tonka's electrical usage, though.

Texaninmass · « **Reply #21 on:** July 01, 2009, 04:10:11 PM »

"An electric fans fail rate is god knows how much higher than engine driven fans (fact, not just opinion). I would suggest that if your engine is nutless enought to notice a difference when removing the fan there is something going on that requires more attention. The only time I'd ever use one again is if the radiator is someplace where the motor could not drive the fan. I've killed pretty much every electric fan I've ever used. Some in short order, and not cheap ones either."

Always important to argue with a guy that repairs LR's for a living....

Update on the fan situation, I went to a salvage yard many months ago and found a 98 LR D1, in the glove box there was a receipt for the radiator in it that had been replaced in 2004 with a LR OEM.
I snapped it up for 40 bucks. I then installed it with my old electric fans and everything seemed good. I ran it in 3rd rear at high RMP's for about 20 minutes and it did not overheat. I thought everything was good. Then a couple of days later I took Mac and her friends up to Harvard and everything was working well until a arrived in town. The truck started overheating, being used to LR's with 3.9's I was prepared for this and had disconnected the compressor (In order to use the fans as a heat removing mechanist)

After that I was forced by some common sense to follow the suggestions of the Swamp Slut and replace the electric fans with the original mechanical fan. The outcome of that is that it does not overheat on "touring type runs" but it still does when I get it in situations where I am getting on it. I am know wondering if I might have a bad viscous fan. Hopeful thinking!

I guess I am very hard headed and refuse to believe that a somewhat new radiator is in that bad of shape and that I must replace it.

I know the term "You are a cheap bastard" and need to fork over for a new radiator! is a reoccurring thought BUT I am not convinced that is the issue.

Tex

Tex

Follow up post:

Follow up top this...if Tom thinks my rig is haunted I would probable totally believe that at this point!

Greatdivide1 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 01, 2009, 06:15:01 PM »

LOL hey when was the last time you put a new thermostat in ur truck??? Dave Had a veryvery very simular issue with his truck. Did the electric fans pulled out rad flushed it and still in traffic or beating on it,it would get very hot. Then on a whim while talking about it I suggested he try a new t stat. Surer then shit it was a bad t stat!!! All good now even when he really beat on it dont heat up anymore!! Just some food for thought.....

Texaninmass · « **Reply #23 on:** July 01, 2009, 06:31:09 PM »

Good food for thought. I did replace the thing when I first had the issue bought, in cheap ass Texan style Ian Autozone one....I think I replaced it with one of those guaranteed bypass ones...you know what I am talking about?
Can't remember where I got that one...maybe autozone again...What the hell is wrong with me!!! I even hate Autozone and still occasionally buy parts from there....so close to me house

Greatdivide1 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 01, 2009, 06:35:17 PM »

His was just a robbins one nothing special just a cheapy

junkyddog11 · « **Reply #25 on:** July 02, 2009, 07:01:48 AM »

Did you flush that "new" rad out.....or better still, take it to a good rad shop and have them flush and test it.

....and, just because your thermostat is new doesn't mean it is any good, although I would tend to lean toward the rad being cagged up myself, it being the unknown here.

Texaninmass · « **Reply #26 on:** July 03, 2009, 08:11:51 AM »

..........Again Matt reaches out to the masses! There is a local guy that my mechanic uncle knows that has done work on LR radiators that will do it for $100.00. I will take it over to him this week and have him clean it out. I don't use it as my daily driver anymore so theirs no reason not to have it out of commission for a bit and have it done correctly.

junkyddog11 · « **Reply #27 on:** July 04, 2009, 07:06:42 AM »

What is being done for $100?

The shop I use generally charges around $40 / $50 and the rad comes back all shiney and new (if all was good with it and no repairs needed)

Texaninmass · « **Reply #28 on:** July 04, 2009, 08:02:35 AM »

Oh yea, this guy was talking about $100.00 if he had to take the caps on and clean it because of serious blockage.

Author Topic: Replacing Viscous/Mechanical Fan with electric (Read 765 times)