Topic: least expensive sliders/jackable sillls for Disco (Read 623 times)

apcollins · « **on:** April 24, 2009, 05:37:02 AM »

hey all-

im trying to take my D1 out to Arizona this summer, and i want to set it up to be able to jack it in the desert if i should damage a tire...

since i want them anyway i thought i might get some rock sliders that i could use a Hi-Lift with.

obviously i dont have any money because i drive a Rover, so i was wondering if anyone could recommend the least expensive place to pick up a pair of sliders in the NE area, and have them mounted

thanks,
Andrew

Daniel · « **Reply #1 on:** April 24, 2009, 01:25:35 PM »

I'm impressed by the Hard Labor Creek fabrication ones that the guys have been talking about and posting on on LRO. You can get them with the receivers built into them for Hi-Lift pick-up. Also, I believe you can get that option on the ones made by RoxtarFab, who posts a lot on Pirate.

captainruss · « **Reply #2 on:** April 24, 2009, 08:01:12 PM »

I got a really nice set of sliders last year from a guy who goes by nateb on DWeb. He is fabbing sliders and bumpers and his prices and work are really good. I'll try to get a link to him later on.

TightButWillFit · « **Reply #3 on:** April 25, 2009, 03:29:55 PM »

chirs snyder...do the ones you have also for the discos? or do they make a pair form them....chrises are whicked tuff that for sure

Need4speed008 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 25, 2009, 05:23:40 PM »

i wouldn't say they're wicked tuff considering they are currently slightly bent up into the body

Daniel · « **Reply #5 on:** April 25, 2009, 06:08:14 PM »

That's a sign of not doing his research on proper wall thickness. My Kalahari came stock with SafariGard sliders on it, and I've had the truck high centered with nothing but the sliders hiolding the weight of the truck. Doors still open and close fine, and no bending of the sliders at all.

cellulararrest · « **Reply #6 on:** April 26, 2009, 01:15:15 PM »

I have the mantec's and no they're not very tough. However I knew that going in. They were the cheapest and all I could afford. It's only a very slight bend and, as I see it, FAR better than if I didn't have them.

Well, the actual slider is tough. The issue lies with how they're mounted. Mounting is a far bigger issue for sliders than the actual durability of the steel if you ask me.

CliftonRover · « **Reply #7 on:** April 27, 2009, 12:39:25 AM »

I agree with the mounting point, are the sills on your truck solid? if not you may want to see if there are any frame mounted sliders. if you find some post up the link here because I would like frame mounted ones.

apcollins · « **Reply #8 on:** April 27, 2009, 06:09:48 AM »

these are called "frame sliders" but it looks like something you would have in addition to sill sliders rather then as an alternative
http://rockware.net/rover.html

boot-it · « **Reply #9 on:** April 27, 2009, 06:53:08 AM »

Quote from: apcollins;17241

these are called "frame sliders" but it looks like something you would have in addition to sill sliders rather then as an alternative
http://rockware.net/rover.html

i have those on my 90, helps with sliding over rocks without getting caught on your trailing arms.

grobinson · « **Reply #10 on:** April 27, 2009, 12:40:13 PM »

When I first started out wheeling, and had little money, I was using the DAP sliders which is local and right in VT:

http://www.dap-inc.com/acc/app/d1/d1_prot-susp.shtml#prot

Downside to these are that they don't mount to the frame, just uses the same mount concept as the side steps. They did flex slightly when the whole truck was resting on them, hence they're not on there to be pounded on. You can jack with a hi lift, with some precaution that it doesn't slip off, but that could happen with any slider. The other downside, especially with New England wheeling, is if you take a hit from the side with a log/rock you can actually fold the slider since it's only got two mounting points. Seen this done on the trail. Overall, just for light protection over the standard plastic sills and a jacking point, probably the cheapest you may find.

CliftonRover · « **Reply #11 on:** April 27, 2009, 05:00:13 PM »

As far as sliders go I just need to motivate myself to make some. The frame sliders are nice, I will likely just move the rear arm mounts and make stronger links if it came to needing them.

junkyddog11 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 28, 2009, 07:11:07 AM »

It's tough to make frame mounted sill "sliders" for a Disco / Rangie as the frame is so far away for the sill that there is allot of leverage on the mounts and the frame is really not up to the task. I have seen some pretty impressive frame damage from this application. Also as the body is isolated from the frame, mounting the sliders to both can be an issue unless one is also isolated.

Rovertym make probably the best sliders out there. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. As Gavin mentioned, the DAP part will work for light duty aplications and are short money, very much like the other Mantec copies out there.

The slut had the body sills removed and 2"x4" 1/8" wall square tubing welded in (rust repair) and then has 2"x3" 1/4" wall "sliders" (also air tanks) bolted to that. You could toss a grenade in that thing and the rest of it would be gone...but not those sliders...

captainruss · « **Reply #13 on:** April 28, 2009, 08:01:35 AM »

Here's the link to the guy who built my sliders: http://www.bottorf-fabrication.com/sliders.php

apcollins · « **Reply #14 on:** April 29, 2009, 09:16:16 AM »

wow those DAP ones really are inexpensive.

CaptainRuss- how have yours held up? they're really not much more money, and might be a better buy if the quality is high enough.

I mean, it's really just for the jacking-point right now, the truck is mostly stock so I don't go too extreme (but you can blow a tire anywhere and the factory bottle jack just wont cut it in the dirt).

Author Topic: least expensive sliders/jackable sillls for Disco (Read 623 times)